CABECOU

Under the rind, the paste stays supple, almost creamy while the piece is young: lactic notes lead, the goat character is barely hinted at.

As it matures, the texture softens and the aromas round out, bringing more pronounced goat notes forward while keeping a fine roundness on the palate. A simple, approachable cheese, valued as much for its mildness as for the way its aromas develop.

The format suits cooking well. Set on a slice of bread and given a few minutes in the oven, the Cabécou melts while holding its shape. It also works over a seasonal salad, slips into a tart, or is simply eaten in a single bite at the end of a meal.

It finds its balance with a dry, taut white, a Gaillac or a Sancerre, and a sourdough country loaf. Find it in our selection of goat’s milk cheeses.